I developed this pattern to chase Jack Crevalle (Caranx hippos) on south Texas jetties. It has been my experience that the jacks prefer a fly/lure with a little more bulk. This is a heavy fly. I wanted a design to get down quickly before the tidal currents pushed it further down the jetty. One addition I will probably add is a zonker defouler on the rear section. I’ll probably use heavy mono to do this. Feel free to use this pattern and/or modify it. I have had the best luck with the color pattern shown, but black works well in addition to fluorescent green and hot pink (think electric chicken colors). I’m sure monster brown trout (Salmo trutta) will eat this fly and perhaps even big largemouth (Micropterous salmoides). Enjoy!
Hook: Mustad 34007 size 2 (you will need two of these)
Weight: 0.015 Lead wire
Tail: Straight cut white rabbit zonker
Body: Pink strung hackle
Flash: Pearl flashabou
Hackle: EP fiber brush
Eyes: Your favorite eyes
Finish: Clear Cure Goo
Lay down a solid thread base. Start at the eye of the hook and work your way back to the start of the bend.
Wrap 0.015 lead wire around the shank of hook. I want this fly to be heavily weighted to get down quickly.
Secure the lead wraps with several wraps of thread. Head cement can be applied after the wraps to further secure the lead. I also do a couple whip finishes for extra measures.
Cut a straight cut rabbit zonker strip approximately 2X the length of the hook shank. Trim and cut the end to a point. This allows for a smooth and easy tie in.
Tie in the zonker strip just behind the lead wire.
Tie in the flashabou (I like a pearl color). Trim the flashabou so it is slightly longer than the length of the rabbit zonker.
Select 6 full hackle feathers.
Hackle have a natural curvature to them. Take 3 feathers and stack them on top of each other making sure their curves line up. Wetting them will make them a bit easier to work with.
Tie in a group of hackle feathers on each side of the hook so that they curve out away from the centerline of the hook.
Attach an EP fiber brush at the rear of the shank just before the hackle tie in point. Advance the thread forward with tight wraps. Once finished, I like to whip finish a couple times and apply head cement to ensure the wire does not come loose.
Wrap the fiber brush forward hackle style. It is important to brush the fibers backwards after each turn to prevent the material from getting trapped underneath the wraps. Continue wrapping forward until the eye of the hook. Tie off and secure with whip finishes and head cement.
Remove the fly and take your scissors or bodkin to gently tease out any trapped fibers. Slightly moisten your fingers with water or saliva and stroke the fibers back. This completes the rear portion of the Jetty Yeti.
You can use Mason hard mono or vinyl coated wire to create the articulating joint. Here I am using a dacron material. Tie in your material and wrap it the majority of the shank.
Take the tag end and fold it to the rear of the hook. Wrap over the tag with tight wraps. This ensures the joint will not slip when fighting a fish.
Thread a brass conehead bead and a spacer bead through the longer joint material. Then thread the back fly on. Take the remaining portion and push it back through the spacer bead and conehead bead. Tie down the tag end in the same manner as before.
Apply head cement over the entire hook shank to cement everything down.
Repeat tying steps 2 through 12. Tie in a rather large thread head. When finished, I like to do 2 to 3 whip finishes to secure the thread.
Install your favorite eyes and apply a light curing resin. Here I used Clear Cure Goo. When applying your resin make sure to cover the eyes completely and make a nice round head. Also, oversized eyes work really well on this pattern.
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